Zac Steger | Photographer & Travel Writer

Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Metz

2012-03-02T16:30:00.000-05:00

One of the most beautiful cities in northern France, Metz is a great place to experience the blending of German and French cultures. It's primarily known for its cathedral and with good reason.

The origins of its Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Metz go back to the 13th century, through the Gothic cathedral, built within the walls of the predecessor, wasn't consecrated in the 15th. With its breathtaking architecture, the third highest nave in France, and an incredible amount of stained glass works by artists like Marc Chagall and Laurent-Charles Maréchal, it's a must-see if you're anywhere near Lorraine.

Frankfurt in a Flash | A quick guide to Germany's financial capital

2012-02-16T23:00:00.000-05:00

After ignoring “Mainhattan” for years, I decided to do a whirlwind tour of the old town immediately after arriving on overnight flight. With just a few hours to spare, here's the best way to "do" Frankfurt in a flash.

Take the airport train to the Hauptbahnhof, catch either the U-4 or U-5 subway and exit about 3 minutes later at Römerberg. You can alternately walk up Kaiserstraße, which takes about 20. After exiting you can go south a few steps and reach the river Main for a quick view, then move towards the red tower of the Kaiserdom and the Römerberg, Frankfurt's historic heart.

The first thing to remember as you're standing in the square is that pretty much everything around you was rebuilt after Frankfurt was flattened during World War I. But, don't let that spoil the view of the half-timbered buildings and the town hall.

It was here that the city's first trade fairs took place in the 13th century.

One of the most important structures here is the Paulskirche, considered the birthplace of German democracy, It was here that the first freely elected national assembly met in 1848 and drafted the first German Constitution.

Modern architecture echoes the old pre-war designs on Saalgasse. At the end of Saalgasse you'll find the Kaiserdom (St. Bartholomew's Cathedral), where ten Holy Roman Emperors were crowned. In front of the cathedral are some Roman ruins as well as a monument to Charlemagne, who gave the city it's name. (His Franks could ford the river here.)

Remains of the city's former Jewish ghetto (15th to 18th centuries) were uncovered to the east of the cathedral. Frankfurt once had Germany's second largest Jewish community, which can be explored at the Juedishes Museum at Untermainkai 14-15.

Heading back westward you'll notice the skyscrapers above the rooftops as you pass by the birthplace and boyhood home of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Germany's most famous literary figure. The Goethe Haus has been refurbished in period furniture and artwork across several floors, and includes the desk where Goethe wrote "The Sorrows of Young Werther".

With more time you can explore the city's many museums and the restaurants in the charming Sachsenhausen district south of the river. But, for now, you're back at the station with the best of Frankfurt tucked safely under your belt.

A Taste of Sweet Zürich

2012-02-01T22:00:00.000-05:00

Sure, there's a charming old town, a beautiful view of the lake and Alps in the distance, as well as an outstanding culinary scene. But, let's face it, if you're in Zürich chocolate is on your mind.

For the serious chocolate lover, Kerrin Rousset's Sweet Zürich tours is a must. You'll take in the best of the city's sweet side, from the famous Sprüngli to small artisan shops. Be aware, however, that you will never be satisfied with your average supermarket candy bar after this.

Want to explore on your own? Be sure to check out the charming Cafe Peclard Schober in the Niederdorf, Truffe near the Lindenhof, and the Sprüngli flagship store at Paradeplatz with their decadent made-fresh-daily truffles. For fun souvenirs, several Merkur locations throughout the city have a great selection of chocolates from across Switzerland, some with fantastic vintage packaging.

Read more about Sweet Zurich in the current issue of German Life.

More information on Kerrin's tours can be found at www.sweetzurich.ch

Happy Birthday, Alte Fritz

2012-01-23T14:00:00.000-05:00

January 24th marks 300years since the birth of Frederick the Great, or Friedrich der Große, one ofthe most notable figures in German history. Though more interested in the artsthan the art of war, he nonetheless succeeded in several important military campaignsthat united a previously sprawled out Prussian kingdom. He’s also credited withmodernizing Prussia with political and economic reforms, as well as thecultivation of the potato.

Of course, “Alte Fritz” isalso known for his Sanssouci palace and massive park complex in Potsdam, listedas a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Here the king retreated from the pomp ofBerlin and immersed himself in music, philosophy, and French literature.

In addition to a guidedtour of the main palace (there are several), be sure to see the ItalianRenaissance styled Orangerieschloß, Friedenskirche, and the Chinese Tea House. It’s a beautifulconcentration of stunning architecture and history, all sandwiched in one ofGermany’s most beautiful parks.

Frederickdied at Sanssouci after a 46-year reign and was buried at the PotsdamGarrison church. During World War II his remains were moved a Thuringian saltmine, then on to Marburg by the Allied army, and finally the ancestral home atHohenzollern Castle in Swabia. After reunification, his remains were finallyburied according to his wishes (after only 205 years)– on the terrace atSanssouci, without any pomp, and at night. Be sure to bring a potato for hisgrave.

Halle's Stadtgottesacker

2012-01-13T09:00:00.000-05:00

There's something eerily beautiful about Halle's Stadtgottesacker. Inspired by the Camposanto in Pisa, Italy, construction on the cemetery began just outside thecity walls in 1557. Considered one of the most beautiful Renaissance cemeteries north ofthe Alps, it was the final resting place for more than 2,000 of Halle’s moreprominent families in the 16th and 17th centuries. WorldWar II bombing destroyed a portion of the cemetery in 1945 and the years underthe DDR saw only further decay. Sincereunification, restoration has continued on the cemetery and the beautifully adorned arcades.

Weitenburg Castle | A Baron's Hideaway

2012-01-08T15:30:00.000-05:00

Castle stays are one of myfavorite parts of traveling in Europe. But, truth be told, they can be hit andmiss, and price alone isn’t always a good indicator of quality or authenticity.Some, however, provide just the right mix of charm, history, and atmosphere.

Schloß Weitenburg is a small castle near the village of Starzach, south of Stuttgart.The castle dates back to the 11^th century and has been in the familyof current owner, Baron Max von Rassler, since 1720. His family was elevated tonoble status by Emperor Leopold I, whose royal “L” can be seen in the familycoat of arms.

Located among rolling hills in the middle ofnowhere, yet close enough to great sights for day trips, it’s a charming spotto relax and soak up the medieval surroundings. Inside the one-meter thick walls are high wood beamedceilings, hunting trophies and curious ancestral portraits, evoking a spirit ofa long gone age – and maybe a few cheesy castle horror movies as well.

Thoughthere are a few modern rooms and beautifully garish suites, most are decked out with antiquefurniture, charming tiled stoves and stucco ceilings; simple and somewhat understated. I'm pretty sure the lady in the portrait above my bed was scolding me, though I'm not sure why.

A portion of the once massive kitchen now serves as a dining area, where regional favorites are not to be missed. A small balcony area offers gorgeous views of a lush green valley.

Sittingquietly in the castle courtyard under the light of a full moon, it was easy toimagine what life may have once been like here and wonder what stories those portraitscould tell.

When a member of the staff offered to show me the private dining hall as I slowly wandered the halls before bed, I jumped at the chance. Passing through a beautiful red salon we arrived at a long table with walls surrounded by generations of the Rassler family. Nearly 300 years in 360 degrees. Pretty impressive.

Entrance to the castle

View of the courtyard from the room

Baron Max von Rassler tells us a bit about the castle

One of many period portraits found in the castle.
She looks pretty sassy, no?

Dive into Zwickau's Johannisbad

2011-11-07T13:00:00.004-05:00

If you're visiting Dresden or Leipzig and looking for a day trip, you'd be well-advised to make a short trek to the north side of Zwickau to see some fantastic Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) architecture. One of my favorite places is the Johannisbad, a Gründerzeit bathhouse from the 1860s with a Jugendstil interior from 1904.

Though it fell into disrepair during the GDR period and was closed shortly after reunification, it was magnificently restored and reopened in 2000. Today the historic structure, with its intricately designed tiles and railing, is on par with other notable Schwimmbäder in Vienna and Budapest. It's certainly a surprising find in this small Saxon town.

Learn more and check out more photos at www.johannisbad.de.

Johannisstrasse 16

08056 Zwickau

www.johannisbad.de

Hotel 25 Hours Hafencity Hamburg

2011-09-15T08:00:00.004-04:00

25 Hours Hafencity is a trendy new boutique hotel that opened earlier this year. Aimed primarily at a younger crowd, as easily assessed by the current 15% discount they offer to those 25 and under. While the views outside are still mostly of construction, the cool retro rooms with maritime themes, seafaring industrial chic, and a vinyl listening room make this hotel a good choice. Rates currently start at 105 Euro per night.

The 25 Hours group has five hotels in four German-speaking cities (two in Hamburg), each with a unique theme. Their sixth location will open in Zürich in 2012.

25 Hours Hotel

Überseeallee 5

www.25hours-hotels.com

Best of Zurich (for Free)

2011-08-18T21:57:00.003-04:00

Zürich enjoys one of the world's highest standards of living. Not surprisingly, it's a great (and easy) place to part with your money. But, even this most stylish of Swiss cities has a few exceptional experiences that will cost you nothing but time. So, here are a few to consider after you realize how much you spent enjoying great restaurants, museums and gorging on Sprüngli chocolates ....

1. Morning on Lake Zurich

Enjoy a quiet morning with breakfast along Lake Zürich. Calm water, a nice breeze, graceful swans and a gorgeous view of the Alps.... a perfect way to start any day!

2. Strolling through Niederdorf

This is Zürich's old town, filled with restaurants, bars, and shops, particularly along busy Niederdorfstrasse. Many of the side streets dart off into more serene surroundings. Check out Vladimir Lenin's former apartment at Spiegelgasse 17, then get a drink from one of the city's many fountains in this shady courtyard.

3. Panoramic view from the Lindenhof

Once the site of a Roman fort, the Lindenhof is on the opposite side of the river Limmat and offers a spectacular view of old town. In 1798, citizens swore an oath to the Helvetic constitution on this spot. Take on a local at the oversized chess set.

4. Stained Glass at the Fraumünster Abbey
Dating back to 853, the abbey was very influential, gaining the right to mint coins, collect tolls and hold markets. Check out the more contemporary addition; 5 stained glass windows by Marc Chagall added in 1970.

5. 360 Degrees of Zürich atop the Uetliberg

Ok, this one you may want to buy a train ticket for, but technically you can hike all the way up this small mountain for an outstanding view of the city and Alps. If you still have energy - and don't suffer from vertigo - climb the observation tower for 360 unobstructed degrees of Zürich.

Hin & Weg Comptoir - Fresh and Freundlich

2011-08-17T16:18:00.004-04:00

In a city so gastronomically rich, it's somewhat surprising to find one of the best restaurants not in the charming Old Town or bustling Bahnhofstrasse, but in a blue-collar neighborhood on Zurich's west side. Hin & Weg began as a catering partnership between several friends, including Marc Muggli and his girlfriend Katja Jeisli, and blossomed into a proper restaurant this year.

Hin & Weg's simple, classy decor and a French-inspired menu focusing on fresh ingredients make it worth the trek outside of the usual tourist spots. But, as anyone in Zurich will tell you, the west side is where everything is happening right now.

The introduction to the special lunch menu began with three delicious morsels made from the Chef's fresh market finds, most notably a lush melon soup. Salad served from a jar? Yes, it absolutely makes sense. Fresh spinach, asparagus tips, thinly sliced duck and a special honey sauce, followed by Veal served over Mini- Röstini. Just when it appeared things couldn't get better, a tray of desserts appeared....

In addition to all the tasty Hin & Weg goodness is their eco-friendly take-out. For a small deposit your food comes served in glass containers and a cardboard carrying box that can be recycled.

The Küchengruss, a special offering fresh from the market


Jungspinat ... fresh spinach salad with asparagus and duck

Milchkalb with mini-Röstini

Birmensdorferstrasse 171
CH - 8003 Zürich
www.hinundweg.biz

Discovering Bern - Switzerland's almost secret capital

2011-08-02T11:46:00.000-04:00

I’m pretty sure I woke up at the Hotel Allegro with a smile on my face, recalling the warm and fuzzy feeling I had upon seeing the Alps from my window the evening before. Right as I was about to spring from bed with the giddiness of a schoolgirl, I heard the thunder; warm and fuzzy feeling gone.

My first words uttered, however, were more in line with those of a sailor. Bern had been on my “must-see” list for over a year and, though disappointed at the lack of sunshine, I was certainly not going to let the rain dampen the experience. However, it thoroughly soaked me.

The day began with a city tour of the Swiss capital via scooter. Not with a Vespa as I imagined, but rather a small two-wheeled device that required a little footwork. Amazingly, I managed to get a fantastic tour of this charming city without injury.

Bern’s old town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is filled with beautiful sandstone architecture, nearly four miles of shopping arcades, the Berner Cathedral, and the Zytglogge tower with clockwork from the 16^th century. Legend says the town’s name came from the first animal founder Duke Berchthold V von Zähringen killed. Was it really a bear or just big dog?

The rain didn’t wash out Switzerland’s largest mass sporting event, the Bern Grand Prix. Each May runners take to the streets of the old town for “The Most Beautiful 10 Miles in the World”, an occasion that also sees the capital city bring out the canton flags.

Market day brings out fresh produce, flowers, strange meats, and some of the most fragrant lavender north of Provence. After sampling at 5^th generation cheese maker Mike Glauser’s Jumi stall, I was convinced that the Swiss produce not only the best chocolate, but the best cheese as well.

One of the most prestigious spots in Bern is Bellevue Palace, located next to the House of Parliament. After checking out the view from the rooms, experiencing the impeccable service, and enjoying an outstanding meal at its five star La Terrasse restaurant, it’s pretty easy to see why. The King of Spain has just stayed there a week prior.

The warm and fuzzy feeling came back at the Kornhauskeller, one of Bern’s trendy bars. Was it the ambience or the absinthe in the air? Either way this cozy cellar is a great place to wind things down, relaxing with old friends or making new ones.

After a delicious Sunday Brunch at the Schwellenmätteli, which I’ll pretend means “Swell Meal” for the moment, we were briefly rewarded with clear skies. After taking in stunning view of Bern from across the river at the bear pits, it was time to say goodbye, warm and fuzzy feeling fully intact.

The flags only come out on important occasions, which I'm fairly
sure includes my visit.

Bern's Zytglogge

View from Bellevue Palace

Runners in the Bern Grand Prix.

More information about Bern can be found at www.Bern.com

Live blog: Copenhagen

2011-07-26T17:37:00.003-04:00

Copenhagen's New Harbor

Arrived in Copenhagen today and set out to explore my first Scandinavian city. Since it's a port, a boat tour (70 Kroner, 1 hour) seemed like a logical way to see the city, so I jumped aboard. There were sights to see, but the hum and sway of the boat was a little too calming and I briefly fell asleep.

Walter - Zürich's Industrial Chic

2011-07-01T12:18:00.017-04:00

We had just passed the ultra-trendy Freitag storefront in Zürich’s old industrial quarter when we saw it. Here in what could be called the Anti-Zürich was Walter Vintage Möbel & Accessoires and it caught everyone’s attention.

Opened by four friends in April, Walter features vintage, typically industrial grade furniture, along with a mix of decorative art and even dishes. It feels like both a shop and gallery all in one, both complementing and contrasting the gritty surroundings.

Bettina Bucchéri has an eye for the unexpectedly chic

For Bettina Bucchéri, her passion for this Industriechic may be inherited from her Italian father, who grew up in poor conditions and learned very early on how to work with various materials. “Old damaged pieces of furniture were restored, old thrown away objects were repaired and used for purposes other than intended”, she recalls. But, a more recent need turned her to opening a business.

“The idea came up when I wanted to buy a vintage industrial multi-drawer cabinet” says Bettina, “It was a mission impossible to find one of this kind here in Switzerland”. She eventually found what she wanted in France, but saw a void that she believed she could fill in Zürich. “I realized that industrial chic was still a niche in Switzerland. Voilà! The idea was born.”

Most items come from outside Switzerland, with the exception of items like hand-knitted key holders and linen table mats that are made in-house. Walter will definitely appeal to interior designers and architects, as well as individuals looking for unique items for their home or office. Need something unconventional for your next photo shoot? They'll even rent items.

Travelers might have a tough time finding something they can easily carry home, but this unexpected gem is definitely worth checking out.

Geroldstrasse 15

8005 Zürich

www.WalterWalter.ch

Kunstmuseum Basel: Konrad Witz Exhibition

2011-06-21T23:56:00.001-04:00

Among Basel's many world-class museums is the Kunstmuseum Basel, which will be closing a special exhibition on Konrad Witz after July 3rd 2011. Witz lived in Basel during the first half of the 15th century and is most noted for several altarpieces, including the "Mirror of Salvation", as well as his rather eerie Grossbasler Totentanz (Dance of Death), a cemetery mural from the Predigerkirche in Basel that today exists only in fragments.

View more about the exhibition here.

Kunstmuseum Basel

www.kunstmuseum-basel.ch

Les Halles - Funky and French on Zürich's west side

2011-05-29T12:37:00.007-04:00

Though I'm a longtime Germanophile, I've become increasingly fond of France in recent years. So, it was nice getting a little dose of France here and there in Zürich. Les Halles is a funky French flavored restaurant in a former warehouse on the west side. In some ways it feels like sort of an anti-Zürich.

As it turns out the food is excellent. They're known for their "Moules et Frites", so most of us tried the mussels in white wine sauce at lunch. A very good choice. A little disappointed that, despite having branded umbrellas at the tables, they did not in fact serve Kronenbourg beer. I'll give them props for all the organic goodness, but the "bio" beer they felt was a good substitute fell a little short.

Pfingstweidstr. 28a

8005 Zürich

www.les-halles.ch

Kohlmanns Feuerkuchen

2011-05-22T05:13:00.004-04:00

In Basel, where the French, German and Swiss cuisines collide, is the very trendy and tasty Kohlmanns. Their specialty is the Feuerkuchen (literally "Fire Cake"), also known as Flammekuche,a sort of regional flat bread with a sour cream base. After trying several versions, I found the "Classic" (wheat dough topped with a spiced bacon and onion) to be just that.

If you took away the lasagna's tomato base and drowned it in cheese, you'd have something similar to the Kohlmanns Nudelauflauf. Good, but nowhere close to the Feuerkuchen.

"The Classic" Feuerkuchen

Kohlmanns Nudelauflauf

Steinenberg 14
4001 Basel
www.kohlmanns.ch

Vitra Design Museum, Weil am Rhein

2011-05-22T03:44:00.008-04:00

Though it's claimed by Basel, the Vitra Design Museum is actually across the border in Weil am Rhein in Germany. It is focused on furniture and interior design, though perhaps most noted as Frank O. Gehry's first building in Europe. I preferred Tadao Ando's conference pavilion and Zaha Hadid's rather quirky fire station, built on site after realizing a little too late that the nearest village fire department couldn't respond fast enough.

Conference pavilion by Japanese architect Tadao Ando

Charles-Eames-Str 1

79576 Weil am Rhein

www.design-museum.de

Acqua Osteria - Basel, Switzerland

2011-05-17T18:18:00.005-04:00

What Basel may seem to lack in actual sights, it more than makes up for in great museums and restaurants. Today's lunch was at Acqua Osteria, a former pumping station turned restaurant. It has an interesting blend of modern and rustic design and a quaint little garden. Very nice roast beef, good wine, and a little ice cream and espresso to top it off.

Roast Beef

Vanilla Ice Cream with Cherries

Binningerstraße 14
4051 Basel
www.acquabasilea.ch

Tasting Swiss cheese in Bern

2011-05-15T18:22:00.005-04:00

Cheese is a family affair for Mike Glauser, a 5th generation traditional cheese maker based in the Emmental area near Bern. It doesn't take long to see that he and his partners are passionate about what they do, and it's easy to taste why when you sample his varieties of cheese, including the outstanding "Belperknolle", coated in garlic and black pepper. Seriously, best cheese ever.

www.jumi-gmbh.ch (German Only)

Yep, cutting some cheese.

Mike's the guy in the hat in back. I was so distracted by cheese that I forgot to photograph him.

Well, it's cheese. Lots of delicious cheese.

Welcome to rainy Zurich ...

2011-05-15T17:52:00.000-04:00

Zurich’s old town has no shortage of shops, good when it's rainy. In addition to the chocolate, (which is enough, really) there is a good selection of clothing, antiques and even a nice shop for kids. The water is quite possibly the cleanest I’ve ever tasted. Even the river has this clear, clean, teal color that makes you just want to jump in. (Ok, maybe that’s just my warm nature talking.)

Morning along Lake Zurich

2011-05-13T13:18:00.004-04:00

Spent some time relaxing along Lake Zurich this morning, a relatively shallow and clean body of water. The lake's most famous residents were also out.

Chocolate, Cheese .... must be Switzerland

2011-05-06T12:05:00.001-04:00

Heading to Switzerland next week ... Bern, Basel, Zurich .. followed by
a couple days in southern Germany.